#每天读一点服装史# MANTUAS AND OPEN ROBES

1720 - 1770

MANTUAS AND OPEN ROBES

Throughout most of the 18th century the basic style of women's dress was the open robe, a garment that was put on somewhat like a modern-day coat.

A separate skirt known as a petticoat was worn beneath, and the gap at the bodice covered by a stiffened panel called a stomacher, which was pinned in place to the robe by a series of tabs.

The robings (foldback edges of the gown) covered the pin heads.

Fashion for the most formal occasions was set at the French court of king Louis XV and copied throughout Europe, particularly the style known as le grand habit - a heavily boned bodice, and a separate, richly decorated skirt and train.

The mantua, a style of dress that involved folding and draping the sides and the back panel, was also popluar and seen at the English courts of the hanoverian kings.

MANTUAS

SHOES

For most of the 18th century women's shoes were made of fabric.

Although the material might be patterned dress silk, it was not usual to choose a gown and shoes in matching material.

Sometimes separate leather overshoes were worn to protect the fabric shoes.

A metal buckle decorated with cut-glass pastes was pinned into the latchets (side straps) to fasten the shoes.

18th century fabric shoes

公元1720 － 1770年

曼图亚与敞开长袍

十八世纪大部分的时间里，女装的基本款式就是敞开式长袍，就像我们现代穿的外套一样。

一款独立的衬裙单独穿在里面，上身打开处被一片加硬的装饰片覆盖，我们称它stomacher装饰胸片，这块胸片通过一系列的标签带固定在长袍上。

上衣前片以一系列标签带固定在长袍上。

长袍（裙摆边缘折起收进衣服里）线头被隐藏了。

最正式场合的着装潮流是国王路易十五在法国宫廷建立的，并在欧洲各地复制，特别是被称之为"伟大习惯“风格的重型鱼骨衣，以及独立的，装饰丰富的裙子和长后摆。

MANTUAS曼图亚

曼图亚，一款利用折叠，侧面垂坠与后背挺直的长裙款式，也是国王汉诺威在英国宫廷非常流行与常见的款式。

敞开式后摆与衬裙由1760年从中国或印度进口的印花丝绸制成。

鞋履

十八世纪大部分的时间里，女鞋都是由布制成的。

材料可能是带图案的衣用丝绸，但选择长裙与鞋履使用同一种面料是不太常见的。

有时单独的皮质鞋套能帮助保护布织物鞋履。

一种以透明贴固定的金属扣装饰鞋，利用侧带来扣紧鞋子。

18世纪搭扣布制高跟鞋

皮质鞋套

印花布制高跟鞋